Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Mui Ne

I had a weird feeling about leaving my favorite hostel in Vietnam. I didn't want to miss out on a new location or miss out on some of my last few nights with James and Dee. So I said good bye to the lovely ladies at Mojoz Dorm and caught the day bus to Mui Ne with my people. 

It was a beautiful drive and an unexpected landscape change. Sand dunes and wind turbines. Never would have expected wind turbines. 


When we arrived in Mui Ne:
we got off the bus, and decided to be pro active and confirm our already booked bus tickets to Saigon on the 2nd. We walked up to the guy at the station and asked, he told us it was a Vietnam holiday. The 1st, 2nd and 3rd and if we wanted on the bus we had to pay $6 more, each! I bought this open bus ticket because I was told I wouldn't have to pay extra during the holidays. 

The 3 of us talked it over and Dee wanted to just pay it because she didn't think there was any other way around it. 
I didn't want to pay until I talked to my friend Pearl, in Hanoi. She was the one who booked our open bus ticket. Pearl also has helped us with all other small issues we have had along the way.

So my travel parents paid and I held off. We walked a few buildings down and got lunch, still with our backpacks. 

While we ate I messaged pearl and she called the bus company, they said that the guy shouldn't ask for any money. Then they said that there was no record showing that James and Dee paid. Nice! So he likely pocketed it and it was a scam for him to make money. Good thing we asked for a receipt from him! However when I took a photo of the receipt and sent it to Pearl she said it was missing the price that was paid.

Pearl informed the main bus company of everything and then told us to go back and get James and Dee's money from
The guy. She also said we'd be booked on the bus to Saigon on the 2nd.

James and I went back, Dee stayed with all our bags at the restaurant and she said I should go. We arrived back to the station (just a desk inside an open aired building that also has a restaurant).

There was now a lady at the desk and no man in sight. I politely asked if the man was around and she walked around the corner and deeper into the restaurant area. I looked her way and saw him sitting at a table eating with another man. As soon as he saw me his face changed. He seemed very upset and he started rambling. I'm sure he was mad at me because I was the one who refused to pay the extra $6 right from the start. 

The lady came back and said he's eating give him 5 minutes. 

I was messaging with Pearl still, using the station's wifi. I gave Pearl the number to the desk we were at and then suddenly the man appeared! 

With nothing said, he went to the desk and very assertively pulled out the money and handed it back to James. 

So obviously if we didn't have to ask for it, he had been called by the bus company and told to refund us. 

The funny and not so funny thing about this refund is that the men here aren't use to this. They aren't use to a westerner having a Vietnamese connection like I do! I have Pearl on my side and this women has truly assisted me all through Vietnam and is always checking in with me to see how I'm doing. Without Pearl the bus station wouldn't have been called today and we all probably would have just had to pay the $6 "scam fee"

So after the man hands back the money to James, James asked, "why did you take my money?" The guy wouldn't answer and instead pushed past him and yelled at us to "go!" James asked again, "but I don't understand why you would take my money?" 

The man was being incredibly rude, and acting like a child who didn't get his way. He didn't make his extra money! Now everyone eating in the restaurant is all eyes on us. All westerners. 

I asked the guy if we still had seats on the bus and he yelled at me saying something like, "you have tickets and I paid back your money and now bus is already full!"

I didn't know if that meant we were on the bus or off the bus. 

Meanwhile in response to James's 2nd attempt at asking the guy why he took his money, the man grabbed James and pushed him and then got on his scooter. At this point the lady is yelling at James and I. James grabbed the mans arm to stop him from anymore physical behavior. James was incrediably calm and even smiling at times. He always smiles. He's an amazingly kind soul. The only time he gets upset is if you upset Dee. 

His smiling pissed the lady off and she kept yelling at him, "stop smiling!" She was getting herself way to involved during this mess but at the same time she was just background noise. Our focus was the man. 

James didn't want to fight he just wanted fairness and for the guy to explain himself. I've heard stories of guys wanting to fight James and then somehow he ends up talking them out of it and they hug it out.

James said, "I don't want to hurt you I just want you to answer my question" the guy had a look of fear in his eyes and then he almost dropped his scooter on its side. He grabbed a big metal thing from the ground. It was aluminum but I didn't realize that as quickly. What I saw was Thos guy about to attack James! I jumped in the middle yelling at the guy as I pushed him back and tried to
protect James from any harm. Not that he needed it. James could fend off the entire town! It surprised the guy that I jumped in.

James pulled me back calmly and asked me to let him handle it. I didn't think James saw that coming at his head but I stepped back a little and let him control the situation. 

Then the guy took off his helmet and started banging it on his own head! Like a gorilla pounding on his chest! It was ridiculous! This whole thing was!

The lady was also yelling at us that she was going to call the police if we didn't leave. We had a number of people watching all this from the restaurant which James told me later that he had taken into account. They were witness's if we needed any. It's also hard to tell how corrupt the police are in Vietnam.

We eventually walked away but not before the guy got on his scooter yelling at us to come back tomorrow morning and then tried to run us over on the scooter! 

On the walk back I started crying, I was so upset! If I get really worked up in a negative way over something I'm passionate about I tend to cry. Thankfully it's after I walk away from the situation. Not a quality I like about myself. I'm a peace keeper though and it's upsetting when things turn in a negative way. 

From this point I managed to get pearl to handle everything. I asked her to see if she could make sure the 3 of us were booked for the bus on the 2nd and that I'd like to not go back there again.

We got back to the restaurant where we left Dee and told her what happened. I finally had to take my sunglasses off and they realized I was crying. They felt awful! Dee felt bad because she sent me instead of her because apparently she also cries when she gets really upset. She thought I was a better choice and because she knew if the guy touched her at all that would make James furious! 

She had to laugh though and call me her twin because of my crying. I said to her, "you really are my mom!" It was definitely funny. 

The longer James sat there (which wasn't long) seeing me so upset the more upset he got. At least this what Dee and I came to the conclusion of. He got up and went back, alone! 
I asked Dee if I should go back with him (I didnt want him going alone) she said no and that she shouldn't either. So we let him go. 

He came back, smiling and told us the guy was back. He probably never even drive away. He was very surprised to see James back. 
He calmly told the guy and the lady that we would be back to catch the bus on the 2nd and that he didn't want to cause any harm he just wanted all of us to be treated fairly and not have our money taken for no good reason.

Well! That incedent took up a few hours and then we had a 2 or 3 mile walk to our guest house. There's always a bright side to things and a few came from this. Our walk was much more shaded and breezy then it would have been earlier. Also, pearl messaged me to tell me that bus was going to leave at 11am for Saigon instead of 2pm because it would be a busy travel day. If we hadn't have had that interaction and involved Pearl at that the station, I'm not sure how we would have found out about the bus leaving earlier.

We ended the day with a sunset beach walk. It was perfect timing and beautiful! 


There were a few touristy things we could have done here in Mui Ne. There are white sand dunes and red sand dunes, a fishing village market and the fairy river. We passed all the dunes and drive over a part of the river on the bus ride in. We have seen a few fish markets and there are still more ahead in my travels. So we really weren't feeling to pushed to see these things. Plus Dee read that dunes have become littered upon and there are mobs of little kids there who will give you cardboard to slide on and then rob you! They hassle you a lot too. So we just chilled out in Mui Ne. 

Lots of fishing boats.

We made both our full days there, beach days. Beach walks, I should say. Walking long stretches of beach in one direction and then walking back through town so we could find food and water.  

I have never been to a beach that has so many unbroken and beautiful shells! Most are polished as well! 

Sadly the locals go out early in the morning and take up a lot of these shells and cover them up so the beaches look cleaner. I saw some massive shells one day but I didn't have my camera to capture them. 

I collected these 4

There's a lot of fishing waste along the shores and in the ocean. It's super sad to see and to know that the people just don't care! 

Lots of trash along the vegetation line of the sand. If there was a career I knew of in making the world more aware of the damage we are causing, I'd be all over it! I'd love to help put a stop to this! 

Then there's several of these waste water ways along the beach that pour straight into the ocean. In this photo, more to the right are several tire tubes. All I wanted to do was collect litter during the days. But then, what do you do with it? They don't really have a garbage system here like western countries do. 

Early morning fisherman and ladies getting ready to go out. 

I found this walk way from the beach. I wanted to walk the street back to the guest house for breakfast. 

Suddenly that walk way turned into this! 

I was the only white person wondering thru all of this. 

And then it led into an indoor market. I couldn't resist a photo of this lady chopping pork as she sits cross legged and barefoot on the same level as the meat. This would be such a huge health violation in America. 

James, Dee and I spent our last day on a kite surfing beach. I had leasons set up to learn to do this once but there was no wind that day and it was canceled. I'd like to try again. It's an expensive and dangerous sport but amazing as well! And so relaxing to watch. One of my favorites to watch. 

Shaded by the palms with the sand beneath me and kites surrounding me. 

The best part of coming to Mui Ne: the last night I was here I saw on FB that a good friend I made 2 years ago in Bali was also here! She's from Spain but works in Japan. I messaged her and the next morning (both our last mornings there) we met for breakfast. We had a great catch up. She was booked for the over night bus to Saigon and I, the morning bus. So we hope to stay at the same hostel in the city. 

Laura and I 

Monday, December 28, 2015

Nha Trang

Nha Trang
Its become a Russian hotspot and everyone who goes, leaves complaining about how many Russians there are. 

Morning beach view.

This city beach resort was alright. It's voted the 6th nicest beach in the world but I don't see it. I'm not sure what the reasons for this rating is. It's a long beach with coarse sand and sadly, random trash washed on the shore. The trash is only at the outer edges of the beach and everything in between is groomed in the morning. 

Another beautiful beach view.

We walked around the city a bit but there really wasn't much to see so we stuck to the beaches. The sun was hot in Nha Trang but it was easy to escape into the shade when I needed a break. 

The hostel! Mojoz Dorm, this place was the best hostel so far in Vietnam. Mira and the owner, Lee especially made this place amazing but the rest of the staff was outstanding as well. They do everything right here! A welcoming bottle of water and a cool packaged wet wipe when you first arrive. I looked like a hot mess when I arrived, dripping in sweat with both my backpacks on. I appreciated that wipe more then I should have. 

Mira (in black) rubbing the head of one of the backpackers. Mira was a total sweetheart!

They have free bananas in the lobby to eat during the day, a complimentary drinking water refill station, - really good breakfast in the mornings and a selection of options to pick from. The breakfast is included in the nightly price. They have lockers in the rooms, nice bathrooms, hot showers, towels and linens provided and wifi. Oh and not that I care but free beers during happy hour on the rooftop where the breakfast is served. Lunch and dinner can be bought here as well if you don't want to go out for it. I saw a guy come in from the beach, burnt yesterday and the girls gave him fresh aloe to rub on it. I paid $4.89 a night for this hostel! 

Rooftop cafe and bar.

The view from the rooftop. Looking down the street straight at the beach.

The last night I was there I went on a food tour with a group from the hostel. It was led by Lee (the owner) and one of her girls from the other hostel. There are two Mojoz hostels. It was only $6.67 and we had 7 courses as we walked the streets together.  







The food tour group outing made me a bit sad to be leaving Nha Trang so soon. I would have been happy just hanging out at the hostel and the beach through New Years. 








After the food tour we went back to the hostel. I was hanging out in the lobby area when Mira put on her helmet and asked me if I wanted to go with her to pick up fried bananas. The owner, Lee had bought them earlier in the day for her staff and they let me try one. When I told them I liked them they said they'd buy me some later. Problem was, now it was later and I was stuffed! But they insisted no matter how many times I told them I couldn't eat any more. 

Mira and I went out on the scooter and into the city in search of these things and just that was totally worth it! Another fun outing as the passenger of a Vietnamese driven scooter! 

Crossing a bridge into the city next to Nha Trang. Still looking for the friend bananas! 

Found them! A tasty little treat. I took them back and shared them with the entire hostel so I wouldn't feel obligated to eat them all. I seriously would have! They were delicious! 

We were originally going to DaLat but the town is pretty booked up and many places raised their prices. It's New Years but also a flower festival is going on which is supposed to be a big deal there. So we decided to go to Mui Ne instead for New Years. It's another beach town further south. I'll have to visit DaLat next time I'm in Vietnam because I've heard great things about it!
 
All the streets are lit up and decorated for New Years. It, like Christmas isn't a big holiday here in Vietnam but they make it big because of the tourists. I'm sure they make a lot of money during our holidays.

January 2nd we'll arrive in Saigon for about 3 nights. James and Dee will stay in Vietnam longer then I will as my visa is almost up. So I'll be heading to Cambodia alone in about 7 days! Eeekkk!! 

HoiAn - so beautiful!

jumped right into adventuring in HoiAn, no wasting time in that city! It was gorgeous and I gladly would have stayed a week or 2! 

Lanterns cover this old city and its really pretty!! Especially at night! 

We got off the bus and James and Dee headed to their hotel and I walked off in the other direction to a backpackers that I wanted to stay at. I was told they were booked for the night but I figured I'd check again and then walk around tell I found something. My luck the private room was all that was left and there was a Chinese girl (Jesse) looking for a room so we split the private room for a night.

Jesse and I shared motorbikes with 2 Canadian guys staying at the hostel and rode to the My Son ruins, a Hindu worshipping grounds. We got lost finding the place but the scenery was nice and the wind felt great! I didn't mention that I have finally arrived in the warmer more humid area of Vietnam. I believe I've only hit the start of the heat and humidity. 

Hindu worship temples.

The temples were cool, I didn't know anything about them or that they even existed. The Canadians were just looking for company and invited us. I've heard that if you have been to Angkor Watt then you'll be disappointed with these temples. There was a guy leaving when we got there who said it was just a pile of bricks. 

This was the closest thing I saw to a pile of bricks and that's due to war damage.

This is a crater in ground left from a bomb impact. 

My opinion on that comment is, that kind of an attitude doesn't make for a good traveler. Positive energy and a good outlook on things is where it's at! 
But he's entitled to his opinion.

My favorite temple. 

We thought the temples were great and I found one that had been damaged from the war. Craters in the ground left from bomb impacts too. I don't know why but I kind of forgot about any sort of war damage after I left Hue.

Ridding home on the scooters from My Son temples. 

The lantern festival was that night, the first night I arrived. It was a celebration for the full moon and just so happened to be Christmas Eve as well. 
Kids and adults sell colored boxes with burning candle in them for 20,000/ $.89 USD to whoever wants one. You make a wish and someone will help you lower that into the river to float away. I watched the beauty happening around me and saved my $.89 for a meal later. 

Kids holding trays of lanterns for sale. 

Lanterns floating in the river. 

Jesse joined James, Dee and I for the festival. Eventually the travel parents went back to their hotel and Jesse and I went for white rose. That's a dish that is very specific to this city. It's a steamed shrimp dumpling. Cao Lau, and crispy pancakes are also well known in HoiAn. 

White rose.

Cao Lau.

The HoiAn crispy pancake. 

Late Christmas Eve night I walked downstairs for water and a girl from the Netherlands was talking about going to midnight mass. I spontaneously jumped in on that and we borrowed a scooter from the hostel. The two of us rode around looking for a cathedral she had seen. 

It was my first time driving with a passenger but an excellent time to practice. At night when the streets are a bit less chaotic.

The church we found. 

Not the most clearest of photos but this was my great Vietnamese Santa find! 

We found the church but the mass was held at 9pm. They were having a few on Christmas Day but I was out with James and Dee. The locals took some photos with us (they like blondes and we both were) and then off we went! Back to the hostel with me yelling, Merry Christmas to every white person we passed in the streets! It was hilarious, it did drain my energy as I was still fighting a head cold but well worth the fun! 

Christmas Day Jesse and I rented bicycles and rode to the beach. I had the pleassure of being yelled at by a parking guy, over and over again and a whistle practically blown in my ear. I wanted to scope out the beach before I paid for bike parking. I just wanted to see it first so I rode to the end of the road to look. That's where this man was. He kept yelling at me and blowing his whistle because he wanted me to park. I'd respond back to him to stop and motion for him to please wait just 1 minute. As he kept yelling I motioned to him that I was just looking. I was also trying to figure out the best rates to pay on my phone, for parking. Soon I just flat out ignored him tell I was ready. Jesse followed my lead.

Christmas Day on the beach! The South China Sea behind me. 

It's frustrating when you can't understand one another but I just make the best of it and hopefully without either party getting angry. I think in this case though he was angry with me.

We finally parked our bikes and eventually James and Dee joined us for lunch, a whole fresh crab for $6 each and then some beach and ocean time. Swimming in the South China Sea on Christmas Day.

Our crabs! 

Dee, myself, James on the beach HoiAn.

Perfectly whole shells and hand woven and lacquered fishing baskets. 

A fisherman getting some help dragging his basket out to the surf. 

I went to dinner with Maddie (a girl I met in Hue and we met up again in HoiAn. She was alone for christmas so we ate at a nicer Vietnamese place called Morning Glory. The place was booming for a Vietnam restaurant. There were reservations, walk ins, a big line and they even had buzzers! Not something I expected to see in Asia. It was SO GOOD! More on the expensive side for this country but even then our total bill was only $12! I could eat everything on their menu! 

The open kitchen. 

Maddie had a few outfits custom made by a few of HoiAn's many famous taylors. being mahad been considering it because so unmet her outside of one of them before going to dinner. All my friends and fellow travelers say "you must get custom clothing made here!" It's THE place to do it. So I did. I bought 2 pairs of shorts and a dress from this place. She measured me that night, I had a fitting the next day and then picked it up the following day. She did a good job but nothing turned out how I had hoped unfortunately. I'm actually really regretting that purchase and wish I could return it. Hopefully it will grow on me and I'll like it more when I'm home. Right now all I can think of is the unnecessary extra weight I just added to my backpack. 

I rented a scooter on my 3rd day there and got lost trying to find James and Dee's hotel. I was supposed to meet them at 8am but things came up and a few errands on my end slowed me down. I got lost near the beach so ridding up and down the coastal road a few miles wasn't exactly awful.

Eventually I found their hotel, then the 3 of us headed to the marble mountains. The two of them on together on their bike and me, on mine. It was about 30 minutes to an hour before we arrived at the mountain. It was easy to get there, a straight shot down the coast line. My two comrades let me lead the way because I was told of an entrance fee that was cheaper than the main one. We did a drive by of the entire front side of the mountain and then turned around. When I found what looked like the entrance I turned in. Dee waved at me to acknowledge she had seen me and they drove past. That was the last I saw of them for the next several hours. 

 I did what I could to reconnect with them, even walked around tell I found someone with wifi so I could text them. After 30 minutes or more I messaged them that I was buying my entrance ticket and going in. I didn't see them tell after I was finished with my tour.

Walking into the main cave. 

Past the bridge. The lady in the black is the lady I'd later help down the steep stairs inside the cave. 

The mountain was super cool! It was indeed a marble mountain with vegetation growing on it, several caves inside and pagodas and Buddhas spread throughout. There was lots of rugged stairs and also some marble rock scrambling to be had. I think it took me around 3 hours to complete what I thought would only be a one hour visit. 

Many little Buddhas.

The steep and rugged stairs that lead to a view up at the top and outside of the cave. 

The view. Interesting fact, the Vietnamese have decided they don't want to carve into their own mountains anymore so they are importing it from China.

Another cave. 

When I finished, I went back to my wifi location and a message came in at that moment from James that they were at a cafe across the street. I met them at the the tail end of their lunch and James ordered me a ginger tea for my throat. 

Da Nang  was our next stop after the mountain. We had passed it on the bus going to HoiAn and it looked beautiful. The 3rd largest city in Vietnam, right on a beautiful beach that the locals don't use AND they recycle! How very Portland, Oregon of them! So we just drove into the city and cruised around on the scooters. 

Just some everyday life in HoiAn.

We decided to head back when the sky started to show signs of rain. And eventually we got caught in a very steady sprinkle that soaked James and I! A great way for me to get over a cold. I should have brought my rain poncho out that day. Dee was nice and dry since she was ridding behind James. 

Speeding down the highway at 45mph, I heard a woman behind me. I checked my mirrors and then turned my head, she was yelling something at me. I kept on going but she wouldn't leave me alone and she was getting closer! Then I realized! I was near the marble mountain and she was asking where I was going, trying to sell me parking for my scooter! On the highway while I was doing 45mph! I yelled back at her, "I'm going to my home!" And just like that she left me alone. 

I've now experienced sales on foot and boat - rowing up to the ship in Halong Bay to sell shells. NOW sales on a scooter, going down a highway! Sales in motion! 

I LOVE all the color in this city! I'll definitely be creating a painting inspired by this place. 

I went to Morning Glory 2 more times before I left HoiAn, it was so nice to eat healthy. The foods good here but there's just to much sugar and oil added to everything, MSG, bread and rice. 

This was THE best banh mi stand found on the trip in Vietnam and I doubt I'll find one better. Infact id like to just end it on a great note and not buy anymore. 

On the last morning I was there I woke up early so that I could go to the local street market. One of the 4 owners of the hostel I stayed at went to the market every morning at 6:30 to buy fresh food for our breakfast. I wanted to experience it with a local so I asked to join her. It was fun watching her negotiate with the sellers and to have them yelling at her, to buy from them and not someone else. 

Selecting the perfect tomatoes for slicing.

All the buyers reaching out in a hurry for the seller to take their money first.

Similar to how they treat westerners. 
Heading back to the hostel on the scooter and western man and his wife stepped out in front of us. They didn't see us because their backs were turned to us but they caused us to have to put our feet down to not crash. The guy turned to us and thought we had done something wrong saying, "Ha! Amateurs!" 

I left the beautiful HoiAn that night after 3 nights and 4 full days. I'll return to this city one day and Dee and James are talking about going back to stay for a few months. I can definitely see them there. 

Next stop NhaTrang, supposedly the 6th nicest beach in the world.